Hey, I have a Shelly window/door sensor on my bifold door. It includes a lux and temperature sensor, which i’m using to close the blinds (luxaflex/hunter douglas) if the temperature exceeds a certain level along with a high light level.
In practice where I live it is easier to close the blinds based on the current outside temperature, but the window/door sensor makes a good second check. it also prevents the blinds from operating if the door is open!
I’ve had this one (it’s the Wifi version not Bluetooth) for about four months and it claims that the battery is at 81%. I’ve not owned it long enough to say if that is a linear or exponential (or totally made up) value.
So there is a calculation for what time the sun is at a particular angle in the sky which will be relative to your area and factors in the time of year etc. You could use that as it will give you a very specific to your area mathematical answer to when you should close your shades. This is a good start. If you mix that with a light sensor and set minimums that will get you the rest of the way there (no sense run blocking lightning a cloudy day.) You can just use a light sensor but it will be more erratic if you don't correct for weather and seasonal light levels.
The rest is personal to how sensitive to light changes and seasonal settings you apply to it.
As far as the physical control goes - there are several commercial devices available as well as diy solutions involving motors and 3d printing on YouTube.
The sun component (which should be enabled by default) already computes the sun position for you.
Elevation and azimuth are available as standalone sensors sensor.sun_solar_azimuth (might be disabled by default) or as attributes on the sun.sun entity.
Good to see proliferation of presence detectors. Good for turning things off when nobody is around.
In my last job I got to play a bit with the SeeedStudio mmWave presence box. What was interesting (and a little confusing) was that it took multiple add-on boards for things like on-device fall detection (for elderly). For the time I had with it, it worked fine with HA: https://wiki.seeedstudio.com/mmwave_radar_Intro/
Yeah that seems to be why the EPL supports a bunch of sensors, it's a tradeoff between different features for each sensor. Some do X/Y position tracking (default one). Some do fall detection. Some can measure heart rate. But seems like no sensor can do it all, at least not in that price range.
Do people know if he is using one of the yaml configs on github or has his own?
I am currently developing a PoE ESP-C3 bridge for the LD2410 and 2450 (don't know if I will sell it or just have all of the files available to make yourself) do I am doing a bit of research. When I make mine open source anyway, I guess the license will be similar to the skreek version anyway so I can work off of his.
Basically the sensor stays the same but they changed the packaging and the case.
Unfortunately it's sold out again.
Shipping to Europe is also quite expensive as the price of the sensor is almost added again with shipping costs and taxes.
It'd be great if they managed to produce a supply large enough to supply EU dealers with it but I suppose the team is too small for that.
It's almost the same to Europe (13€), but this stayed the same for the new batch. Not sure why US shipping got more expensive, previously it was cheaper than shipping to Europe...
I have my dock plugged into a smart plug and the laptop set in the BIOS to turn on when it receives power. I have an NFC tag on my coffee machine that I bloop while I'm making my morning brew, and that turns the dock on so that everything's ready when I move into the office.
For turning things off I have HASS.Agent installed and sending state updates (locked, unlocked, etc, which is useful for other automations) and when that sensor goes unavailable for 15 minutes it turns the plug off. I find that's long enough to allow it to reboot for updates and what not.
The sensor does report shutdown, reboot, and sleep states but I found that it often happens too quickly to get the change sent, so the unavailable state is more reliable.
Yeah, unfortunately, I do not have access to the BIOS, nor can I install things on it - security restrictions. What you have done would have been a lot easier and more reliable though!
I remote in to my home PC while at work for various reasons every day, so I have it set up to wake it up when I get to the office and it works great. The Wake on LAN integration is so rad.
I do this with my desktop - I work from home so it’s really nice to have my PC ready by the time I get down to it. There’s a workday integration too, set your typical schedule and it’ll be true when it’s a workday - with a motion sensor as the trigger as my start time varies if I have meetings
In the morning.
This is one of the first things I set up with HA for fun but the convenience is really nice.
You're right in that running HA just for a WoL timer would be silly, but (presumably) it's already running for other, less silly purposes.
I'd say the main benefit is when the machine requires regular (as in daily) reboots, or if it's something you don't trust is fully private and want to be powered off outside work hours. Not useful for me, but I can see why it would be handy.
Heck, if HA knew for certain it was a workday, it could boot the laptop for me.....hmmm. Maybe something to think about for the future.
I've been meaning to look into how to integrate HA with a NextCloud CalDAV server or something, because I have a lot of ideas for automations that would be best triggered by calendar events (e.g. ringing an alarm [get ready time] + [travel time] before [appointment]).
FYI OEM docks are CHEAP used once they've been out for a few years. And no you can't mix docks from other OEMs and have the power button work since there's no standard for it.
I've found aftermarket ones to be super unreliable though, especially if you use HDMI and power from the dock.
Yeah, I've seen some used Dell ones cheap. But then I might want to use it for my personal non-Dell laptop, and who knows how that will work.
The one I have came from Amazon 3 years ago, and it has worked perfectly. We've been full-time work from home in those three years, so it has gotten a good bit of use.
The docks will work with anything that has Thunderbolt 3/4. It's only the power switch that won't work, and you can't do the breaking USB spec of charging over 100 watts @20v. The downside is those OEM docks tend to be Thunderbolt only, and if you connect it to a USB only device it will either not work at all, or have SEVERELY limited functions.
Is yours a dock dock or just a big hub? I don't really have much experience with the dock docks, but I know the overgrown hubs we use at work love to burn out the HDMI converter chips, but usually work well enough besides that.
I'm not sure if it's a dock dock or a big hub. It's a USB-C connection, so maybe the latter. It's definitely not one of the old style with the proprietary connector.
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